The ascent of the Matterhorn
The Matterhorn, one of the most impressive and famous peaks
in Switzerland and the Alps has unfortunately become increasingly a fashionable
mountain in the past few years. That's why it must be firmly stated that
climbing the Matterhorn still has to be taken seriously. Even for experienced
climbers hiring a guide is recommended.
Inexperienced climbers are advised not to attempt such a
difficult mountain as the Matterhorn for their first climb. They should
rather attempt an easier, but possibly just as beautiful, 4000 m high
peak in the Zermatt area to get some experience.
To attempt climbing the Matterhorn you need to be in top
physical condition, to have some rock climbing experience and to have
done some practice with crampons. You have to keep fit throughout the
year with weekly training. It is also necessary to spend at least one
week to 10 days acclimatising and training in the Zermatt area (hiking
daily 1000 m - 1500 m altitude difference, at an altitude difference of
400 m an hour, including rest stops).
The best time to attempt climbing the Matterhorn is mid-July
to mid-September, depending on the amount of snow on the mountain. If
possible, you should not choose the high-season (1st to 15th August) for
climbing the Matterhorn. You will meet your guide the evening before the
ascent at the Matterhorn-hut. The next morning at 4.00 a.m. / 5.00 a.m.
the challenging ascent begins. It takes about 4 hours to reach the summit,
and it takes the same time for the descent.
For safety reasons the guide only takes one client for the
climb.
Detailed information about the Matterhorn. (Document Zermatt
Alpin Center)